Trending but not trendy

Bring someone to Corteza who says they're adventurous (but you know they're lying). They'll be able to get out of their comfort zone at the beginning of the meal, and then slide back into it with a Mediterranean sea bass. We're glad this Span(ish) restaurant didn't lean into grandiosity or white tablecloths, even though it easily could have. There's a casualness to Corteza that's capable of taking the pressure off of sweaty first dates and dysfunctional family dinners. The South Miami spot isn't fussy or loud. It's unpretentious and lets the food do most of the talking. Their small dining room has a handful of tables and a kitchen counter with a view of chefs frying potato mille-feuilles. Apothecary jars line the shelves. Each is full of pickled mushrooms, kimchi, and piparras that will eventually headline Corteza's best dishes.